A BRIEF HISTORY OF ANGLO-INDIAN CUISINE

The Anglo-Indian Community can be trace back to as early as the 16 th century i.e. to the advent of the Europeans into India . The Portuguese, Dutch, Spanish, French etc. came to India to trade in spices. Towards the later half of the 18 th century, the British made their presence felt with the establishment of the East India Company.

As a result of the inter-mingling and inter-marrying of thevarious European races, a new multi-culturaland multi-racial community evolved over many centuries, which later came to be known as the Anglo-Indian Community. The Anglo-Indians are a unique race of people, who, by combining both European and Indian Cultures have evolved a distinctive culture of their own. They have their own special taste in food, which is a direct reflection of their multi-racial and hybrid heritage. In Anglo-Indian Cuisine the spicy “ Indian Curry” is given as much importance as the bland “ English Roasts”.

Anglo-Indian Cuisine has taken the best of both European and Indian Cuisine and altered it by adding or substituting some of the ingredients so that a completely different cuisine was evolved over hundreds of years. The very popular Vindaloo, Beveca and Dodol are legacies of the Portugese, while the Roasts, Bakes, Bacon and Eggs are typically British. Many of the dishes have rhyming alliterative names like Dodol, kalkal, Ding- Ding, Pish-Pash etc. The very nomenclature of the dishes is unique and original, and synonymous only to the Anglo-Indian Community. The normally bland western cuisine was given a dash of exotic Indian Flavour. Thus a completely new contemporary cuisine came into existence making it truly “Anglo” and “Indian” in nature, which was neither too bland nor too spicy, but with a distinctive flavour of its own. It became a direct reflection of the multi-cultural and hybrid heritage of the new colonial population.

The Word “GASTRONOMY” means “THE ART OF GOOD EATING” and this is very true of Anglo-Indian cuisine, which is an ART IN ITSELF.

Many of the dishes have a unique History behind their existence. The very popular and familiar curry dish “ Vindaloo ” is derived from the Portugese word “Vinha De Alhos” i.e. from the 2 main ingredients in it, which were "Vinho", meaning wine or wine vinegar, and "Alhos", meaning garlic. It was originally a vinegar and garlic based watery stew made with pork or meat in Portugal . However after the Portugese introduced it in India, it was completely revamped with the addition of spices and chilies, and over the years it has become one of the spiciest and most popular curry dishes all over the world.

Grandma's Country Captain Chicken was a very popular dish during Colonial times since it was very easy to prepare. In those days, the poultry used in its preparation were authentic well-fed, homegrown country chickens, which would take at least 2 hours to cook over a firewood oven, but the curry when done, would be rich and delicious.

Similarly, the Railway Mutton Curry is a direct throw back to the days of the British Raj, when traveling by train was considered aristocratic. This very popular and slightly spicy dish was served in Railway Refreshment Rooms and on long distance trains, with Bread or Dinner Rolls. The curry was not too spicy keeping in mind the delicate palates of the British. It was also popular with the Railway staff who had to be on duty for long periods at a stretch. The vinegar or Tamarind juice used in its preparation would ensure that the curry would last for quite a few days and was an ideal accompaniment with rice as well. The recipe for this dish is sure to bring back some happy memories.

The Dak Bungalow Curry was another famous dish during Colonial times. It was prepared with either meat or chicken and served with rice and vegetables or bread to the British Officers when they stayed at the various Dak Bungalows, while on official trips around the country. The recipe for preparing this dish varied with each cook at the Dak Bungalows depending on the availability of ingredients in a particular place during the war.

Mulligatawny Soup was also very popular during the Raj Era. It was actually the anglicized version of the Tamil “Melligu -Thani”. (“Melligu” meaning pepper and “Thani” meaning water). As the name suggests it was originally Pepper Water. However in course of time a lot of other ingredients such coconut, meat and other spices were added to give it a completely different flavour. The dish quickly became popular throughout the colonies of the Common Wealth. The Mulligatawny Soup of today bears little resemblance to the original “MELLIGU -THANI”.